Dating 40 Bornholm
Prized as a strategic Baltic military and trading outpost since the early Middle Ages, and sadly the site of many bloody territorial disputes among the Danes, Germans, and Swedes, it's home to 45,000 year-round residents.
An additional 450,000 visitors arrive during the balmy months of summer.
Covering a terrain of granite and sandstone is a thin but rich layer of topsoil; the island's rock-studded surface is made up of forests and moors.
Most of the holiday flats want a full week's booking, and very few foreign visitors, except perhaps Germans, have so much time to devote to Bornholm.
We like to skip the overcrowded summers altogether and visit in either the late spring or early fall, when Bornholm appears at its most dramatic seasonal change.